The Fête du Roi (Festival of the King) is an annual tradition in southern Casamance, with events ranging from warrior dancing and wrestling competitions to great feasts and spiritual rituals. The Fête du Roi, which brings together local villages to celebrate the King of Oussouye, instills peace and solidarity in a community that was once known for conflict. Everything you need to know is right here.
Who is the King of Oussouye?
To comprehend the Fête du Roi, you must first comprehend the Roi, as the King of Oussouye is not your typical monarch. The Oussouye royal family (the earliest record of which dates back to 1903 but is thought to be many centuries old) does not follow a traditional line of succession, instead electing kings on merit. Following the death of the previous king, village elders will convene to determine whether there is a worthy replacement among the Kingdom’s three main families. If you are not convinced, there is no king (Oussouye was king-less between 1984 and 2001), but if you are chosen, you cannot refuse or resign; being King of Oussouye is a lifetime job.
Sibiloumbaye Diédhiou, the current king, was a mechanic and hotel security guard named Olivier before being chosen by the elders in 2001 to live a completely different life. A life, the king admits, is “more difficult now than before”.
What is the King’s role?
This ‘difficulty’ is most likely a result of the King’s many tenets and customs. On the one hand, he is a spiritual leader: as the conductor of animist traditions and rituals, he is thought to collaborate with the animist god Ata Emit and his spirits by interpreting natural signs and relaying messages to his people. On the other hand, he serves as a local mediator. The Oussouye Kingdom encompasses 100,000 people in 17 Diola villages spread across Casamance, and the King presides over any conflicts, assisting in the preservation of peace and social cohesion.
The King holds court from a sacred wood on the outskirts of Oussouye town, dressed traditionally in red robes and a red hat (no one else in Oussouye wears red), accompanied by a straw broom. From here, he establishes the Kingdom’s agenda to ensure harmony and prosperity, such as scheduling ceremonies and allocating lands to farmers. Rice grown on the royal paddy fields is used to feed his people during the Festival feasts as well as to feed the poor all year.
What is the Fête du Roi and why is it important?
In short, the King of Oussouye is a big deal, so each year near the end of Senegal’s rainy season, the villages of the Kingdom gather to celebrate him during the month-long Fête du Roi, known as ‘Le Houmabeul’ in Diola. It is a time of thanksgiving and praise, as are many other festivals. A chance to thank Ata Emit for the rains and to pray for a bountiful harvest and peace. A festival of unity and community, with diplomatic relations between village elders, and religious and political leaders.
It’s also a riot of color and noise, with local Diola warriors dancing and chanting almost every night. Each village will dress in its traditional garb and compete in friendly contests, the most prized of which is wrestling. To ensure even contests, contestants are divided by age, gender, and build before grappling with one another until a head, bottom, or back touches the ground beneath their feet.
Tips for visiting
The Oussouye Kingdom is one of Senegal’s most beautiful areas, with its verdant forests, mangrove-filled backwaters, and white sandy coast. From Dakar, there are direct flights to Ziguinchor or Cap Skirring (25 and 20 miles (40 and 32 km) from Oussouye town, respectively), as well as an overnight ferry.
Visiting Oussouye during the festival sheds light on an ancient African society in action in the modern world, which is geographically stunning all year. Roads to Oussouye town may be more congested than usual, and village shops may close earlier than usual, but the Kingdom does not come to a halt during the celebrations. However, because it is held in early September – October (September 15 – October 15 in 2018), the heat can be oppressive, so only bring light, breathable clothing. Just make certain they aren’t red.
